The author's experience with an e-bike tour along a section of Romania's Via Transilvanica revealed a growing reliance on the electric assistance. Within seven minutes of the ride, the "power assist" button felt like a crutch, prompting the guide to urge moderation. Despite initial resistance to using the e-bike's assistance, the author found the extra power essential on the steep hills, acknowledging the need for caution given the potential wildlife encounters.
The Via Transilvanica, dubbed the "Camino of the East," is a 1,400km trail connecting Putna to Drobeta-Turnu Severin. It combines elements of eco-tourism, art, and economic development. Conceived by environmentalist Alin Ușeriu and his brother Tiberiu, the trail overcame challenges including corruption and natural obstacles, a testament to resilience and volunteer effort. The route spans seven regions and invites exploration of Romania's countryside.
Arriving two days into the tour, the author missed a significant storm, but rejoined the group in good spirits near a 16th-century monastery. The monastery houses one of eight UNESCO-listed churches in the region, notable for their exterior frescoes. The frescoes, described as "bibles for the illiterate," are well-preserved due to architectural design and paint quality. The Voroneț blue, made from lapis lazuli, remains vibrant.
The trail's terrain varied, requiring hikers and bikers to adapt. The author noted the scenic mountain meadows, pine-covered peaks, and farmsteads, reminiscent of folk horror films. Bucovina shepherd dogs, guarding herds from wildlife, were encountered. The author's guide, Sergiu, a local expert, emphasized the trail's challenging aspects, highlighting the importance of preparation for vertical climbs.
Midday stops offered simple, delicious meals, including cold cuts, tomatoes, cheeses, and plum brandy. Support vehicles and a team were available for maintenance. The author and group encountered minimal other hikers on the trail. The journey continued through ancient forests, potentially home to bears, deer, and lynx.
The trail is marked by 250kg anthracite slabs, each bearing a bold orange "T" for Transilvanica. These serve as way markers and art pieces, highlighting the trail's unique character. The author's guide, Iancu, described the trail as the world's longest art gallery, emphasizing the volunteer effort that built the route. The trail aims to encourage rural retention by increasing tourism.
Accommodation at La Moara guesthouse offered a Swiss-inspired atmosphere. Meals included găluște broth, chicken paprikash, and polenta with unpasteurized cheese. On the final day, the author observed varying fitness levels among the group, noting the importance of matching fitness levels before booking.
The tour offered a blend of physical activity and cultural immersion, providing a glimpse into Romania's past and present. The author expressed a desire to return to explore more of the trail.
The author and group concluded the tour, with Sergiu interacting with a local farmer. The experience culminated in a final hill, followed by a parting sip of plum brandy.
The Slow Cyclist offers a five-night Bucovina Expedition from £1,750 per person, based on a group of 12. This includes airport transfers, a support vehicle, English-speaking guides, accommodation, meals, activities, and e-bike and helmet rental. Regular departures are available between June and November, with private group tours available upon request.
