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Skye Standley, once hailed as a rising star in the modeling world in 2021, has faced significant challenges in her career. Known for her striking features, curves, and red hair, she appeared in campaigns for brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Ganni, and Savage X Fenty. However, despite being highlighted as one to watch alongside established plus-size models like Ashley Graham and Paloma Elsesser, Standley describes the past year as one of her most difficult.
"The past two years have been really challenging," Standley stated, noting a decline in work opportunities. She reported working only a few times last year, a stark contrast to her continuous work in the preceding years. Standley also observed a regression in inclusivity, even from brands she had previously collaborated with, leading her to leave her agency just over three weeks ago.
Despite the body positivity movement's advancements in the fashion industry over the last decade, there are indications that the industry is reverting to prioritizing thinness. Factors contributing to this shift may include the idealization of thinness in "wellness" culture, the resurgence of 90s fashion and its association with "heroin chic," the increasing popularity of weight-loss injections like Ozempic, and the cyclical nature of fashion trends. Additionally, some suggest that the demonization of diversity initiatives and the persistence of fatphobia have played a role. Models, activists, and advocates for size inclusivity are now questioning the rapid reversal of progress. Standley believes that the industry is seeing a separation between those who genuinely support inclusivity and those who were simply following a trend.
Tess Holliday, who has modeled for brands like Chromat and appeared on the cover of Cosmopolitan, described the initial embrace of larger bodies as a "Renaissance." However, she has also noticed a decline in her own work. While Holliday was already transitioning away from modeling to focus on other projects, she expressed disappointment at the industry's regression. "To see such a drastic slide back, it really does make you feel like the progress didn’t matter," Holliday stated, while affirming her refusal to succumb to that sentiment. She also questioned whether she and others were used to create an illusion of genuine care for inclusivity.
Model and activist Felicity Hayward identified 2023 as a turning point, coinciding with the introduction of Ozempic. Hayward, who tracks the use of curve models in fashion weeks across major cities for her report "Inside the Curve," has observed a significant decline in their representation. New York, which featured 70 plus-size models in 2023, had only 23 earlier this year. London fashion week saw a decrease from 80 plus-size models in September 2024 to just 26 this year, with 17 of those featured in Sinéad O’Dwyer's show. Hayward noted that Milan has never fully embraced size inclusivity, and Paris had only 22 plus-size models. She expressed disappointment that the industry seems to be moving away from accepting diverse body types.
Hayward began monitoring inclusion to hold designers accountable, emphasizing the need to look beyond individual instances of representation and examine the overall statistics. She noted that even when brands do use curve models, they often use fewer of them or opt for mid-size models (UK size 12 to 16) rather than plus-size models. Hayward also pointed out that many models have lost weight, with those who were previously a size 16 or 18 now being a size 12. She acknowledged the sensitivity of discussing women's bodies but expressed concern that the industry's limited plus-size representation is shrinking further. A recent size inclusivity survey by Vogue Business corroborated these findings, revealing that only 12 designers used plus-size models across 198 fashion shows earlier this year. The report also noted that the mid-size models used tended to be "the same two or three faces," suggesting that the celebration of a few models has not translated into broader acceptance.
Nyome Nicholas-Williams, a model and activist who experienced a surge in work in 2021, has also seen a decline in recent years. While she continues to work with some brands, she has had to diversify her income by working as a hand model and seeking part-time employment. This shift has affected her financially and mentally. Nicholas-Williams expressed fatigue from advocating for inclusivity and accessible clothing for plus-size individuals.
Nicholas-Williams stated that she was skeptical about the longevity of the industry's apparent embrace of size inclusivity. She observed that when larger models are used, they tend to be mid-size rather than the bigger sizes used in the past. She has also witnessed plus-size models losing weight to secure more work, suggesting a pressure to conform to certain standards. However, she affirmed her commitment to authenticity and refusal to change herself for the sake of employment.
Standley echoed these concerns, stating that she sensed the performative nature of some inclusivity efforts. She noted issues with clothing fit and the extra effort required to make things work on set. However, she also acknowledged the positive impact of the movement, including increased visibility and community for models and activists. She believes that it inspired some designers to continue pushing for change but feels that much of the inclusivity was and is performative and therefore easily abandoned.
Standley also observed a "domino effect" in the industry, with brands now following each other in the regression away from inclusivity, similar to how they previously copied each other in embracing it. She believes that the fashion industry ultimately prioritizes thinness and that fatphobia, which was temporarily set aside, has now resurfaced.
Hayward noted a resurgence in online hate and abuse directed towards larger bodies, returning to levels seen before 2016. Clothing brand Snag reported receiving over 100 complaints daily about their models being "too fat" and had to hire staff to manage negative comments on social media. However, Snag's founder, Brigitte Read, believes that negative attitudes towards larger bodies have always persisted. "I get shouted at just as much on the street now as I used to – I didn’t personally see a decrease in that level of animosity," said Read.
Emma Matell, a casting director known for her inclusive practices, expressed concern for the plus-size models she has helped develop. She highlighted the lack of bookings they are receiving and emphasized the importance of showcasing these models. Matell noted that even during periods of greater inclusivity, stylists and editors often struggled to find clothing samples from designers that fit plus-size models, which is why many images of curve models feature them partially dressed.
Despite the setbacks, Matell believes that some progress has been made. Consumers have seen themselves reflected in the media and may demand more representation from brands. She anticipates a generational shift in consumer expectations, which could hold brands accountable for abandoning inclusivity.
Standley remains committed to representing her community and challenging the narrative around plus-size individuals in the world and in the fashion industry.
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